Nie je chemický peeling ako chemický peeling

Možno ste to ani netušili, ale výhody chemických peelingov využíva lekárska kozmetická starostlivosť už viac ako storočie! Lenže je tu otázka, ako sa vlastne v tom množstve chemických peelingov máme zorientovať?

Chemický peeling funguje na princípe zmeny prirodzeného pH pleti. To je ľahko kyslé a má hodnotu zhruba 5,5. Akákoľvek látka, ktorá má iné pH, a ktorú na pokožku aplikujeme spôsobuje jej zmeny. Dochádza k odlupovaniu vrchnej vrstvy pokožky a starých kožných buniek a tiež k regeneračným pralesom, na ktorých konci stojí krásna pokožka bez jazvičiek po akné, hyperpigmentácie a vrások.

Krásnu pokožku docielime pomocou nasledovných prostriedkov:

Peeling Medaprex

1. Alfa – hydroxykyselina (AHA)

Alfa – hydroxykyseliny sú karboxylové kyseliny, ktoré sú rozpustné vo vode a vyskytujúce sa v prírode. Peelingy stojace na obsahu AHA patria k najjemnejším typom peelingov. Proces “lúpania” v tomto prípade pôsobí  proti jemným vráskam, suchej pleti, nerovnomernej hyperpigmentácii a ľahkému akné.

AHA môžu byť takisto obsiahnuté v kréme v nižších koncentráciách alebo v pleťovom mydle a takto môžu byť súčasťou vašej každodennej starostlivosti o pleť. Pri ich pravidelnom používaní dochádza k zvýrazneniu textúry tváre. Ale keďže sa jedná len o veľmi jemný a povrchový peeling, tento typ nie je vhodný k liečbe vrások.

Medzi najpoužívanejšie AHA patriakyselina citrónová, glykolová, mliečna, mandľová , ale aj kyselina jablčná. Využíva sa ich však omnoho viac.

2. Beta – hydroxykyseliny (BHA)

V súčasnosti sa peeling na báze beta – hydroxykyselín začínajú využívať namiesto silnejších peelingov na báze alfa – hydroxykyselín, pretože BHA sú schopnejšie preniknúť hlbšie do pórov pokožky. BHA regulujú produkciu kožného mazu a výskyt akné rovnako ako dokážu odstrániť mŕtve bunky kože, v niektorých prípadoch dokonca lepšie než samotné AHA, tie pôsobia len priamo na povrchu pokožky. Známou BHA je kyselina salicylová.

3. Kyselina trichlóroctová (TCA)

Účinnosť peelingu na bázi kyseliny trichlóroctovej závisí od jej koncentrácie. V prípade nižšej koncentrácie pôsobí okamžite, čo znamená, že dochádza k vyhladeniu jemných vrások a zvýrazneniu textúr pleti odstránením povrchových vrstiev kože.

V prípade vyššej koncentrácie dokáže zahladiť výraznejšie vrásky, ale aj pigmentové škvrny a v neposlednom rade aj jazvy po akné. Doba rekonvalescencie, kedy sa odlupuje vrchná vrstva pokožky a je nahradzovaná novou sa líši v závislosti od typu pleti a hlavne sile samotného peelingu.

Okrem využitia v oblasti tváre a dekoltu sa využíva aj ako redukcia strií na celom tele, na odstránenie bradavíc a dokonca aj na odstránenie permanentného make – upu a tetovania.

4. Jessnerov peeling

Jessnerov peelingový roztok (meno podľa nemecko – amerického dermatológa Maxa Jessnera) kombinuje 14%-tnú kyselinu salicylovú, kyselinu mliečnu a látku resorcinol na alkoholovej báze. Tento typ peelingu dokáže odstrániť nielen pigmentové škvrny, ale aj akné a taktiež jazvičky, ktoré zostali po akné a tiež rôzne iné nerovnosti pleti.

Podráždenie pokožky po aplikácii (sčervenanie, strupy, opuchy) netrvá zvyčajne dlhšie ako týždeň, pri citlivejších typoch pleti niekedy aj do desať dní. A to vďaka k nízkym koncentráciám obsiahnutých kombinácií kyselín a tomu, že peeling nepreniká do hlbších vrstiev pokožky.

5. Kyselina retinová

Kyselina retinová je forma vitamínu A, retinolu. Peeling na základe retinolu zasahuje hlbšie vrstvy pokožky ako vyššie spomínaný peeling BHA. Využíva sa v prípade ak chcete odtrániť akné, vrásky, výraznú nadmernú pigmentáciu alebo aj jazvy na pleti.V kombinácii s Jessnerovým peelingom sa aplikuje deň pred “zákrokom”, aby sa pleť otvorila a kyselina retinová tak mohla ľahšie preniknúť do hlbších vrstiev pleti. Aj v tomto prípade, sa jedná o výraznejší zásah do pokožky a čas rekonvalescencie trvá rovnako ako v predchádzajúcom prípade, a to približne sedem až desať dní.

6. Fenol

Tento typ peelingu už používali hviezdy Hollywoodu v zlatých dvadsiatych rokoch! Ide o hlboký peeling, ktorého výsledky sú občas až neuveriteľné. Je logické, že si ho zamilovali práve herečky, pretože na rozdiel od iných žien, ony mali dostatok času na rekonvalescenciu. Pri tejto metóde dochádza k intenzívnej exfoliačnej reakcii a preto zotavenie pokožky trvá minimálne dva týždne.

Okrem toho je nutné dodržiavať predpísaný pokojový režim kvôli možnej strate pigmentácie na ošetrených častiach pleti. Odmenou za dlhé čakanie a potencionálne riziká sú nielen spokojnosť, ale najmä dosiahnuté výsledky: vyhladené aj hlboké vrásky, odstránené výrastky na pleti a veľmi výrazná redukcia stareckých či slnečných škvŕn.

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